The Pyramids, the camels and the Sphynx

Justin said that today was the best vacation day of his entire life, totally "sick". Best day in 12 years is pretty great. I counted 17 "sicks" between the two of them today. Livvy chimed in that it was extra great because she and Justin had made a "vowge" not to fight and kept it. I didn't bother to correct her, the vowge rocks! The day started around 6am with Justin on his laptop busy with powerpoint while we enjoyed a gorgeous sunrise over the Nile; and with the haze completely gone the kids could really appreciate the view from the terrace. We headed to Zitouni for breakfast and the 2 maitre d's, the 3 restaurant managers and our 4 trusty waiters (not an exaggeration) welcomed us warmly. No wonder unemployment is so low (9%). After a hearty breakfast, including fresh mango juice so sweet, thick and delicious you could eat it with a spoon, we headed to the lobby to meet Mohammed. Mohammed greeted us in his Dolce & Gabbana matching t-shirt and sunglasses and explained that our new guide, Egyptologist and Professor at University of Cairo, Walid, would be along shortly.

Walid arrived about 10 minutes later and entered the hotel lobby like a conquering hero, shaking hands and exchanging quips with most of the security guards, and numerous lobby attendants (whose purpose by the way I have yet to figure out as all they seem to do is stand at various spots in the lobby and smile and greet people like perfume counter girls at Macy's). Walid quickly informed us that he had just returned from "giving an important lecture in Saudi Arabia" where he was "flown First Class" which is always part of his "standard contract" thank you very much. The kids clearly disappointed Walid when he asked what class they had flown in over to Egypt, and they told him that they had only flown Business Class on the London to Cairo leg of the flight, although Livvy explained that the seats went all the way flat which was clearly of some relief to Walid.

After establishing his worldliness, educated in the U.K. and Kansas, I didn't ask where in Kansas, Walid asked me where we wanted to start, to which I replied that we'd love to get right to the Pyramids in Giza. Walid smiled, gave Aiymen the driver some instructions in Arabic and in no time we were in front of the Egyptian museum. I asked Walid why we had stopped here and Walid smiled ever wider and said that we would begin at the museum and then carry on to the Pyramids as the traffic was awful. I pretended to believe him, no sense making an enemy of our guide for the next week. We hopped cheerily out of the van and made our way into the museum where once again Walid was royally received and greeted by every guard and tour guide with plenty of kisses, back pats and jocularity. Walid whipped out his business cards and handed one to each of the kids and to me, explaining that if ever we are lost or in harm's way to merely hand his card to any police officer, guard or passerby and tell them that "we know and need to speak to this man Walid" and all would be well. After exactly zero questions as to why, Walid explained that his father was special advisor to all of the last 3 Egyptian Presidents and that he knew President Sadat personally and his lovely wife. Later in the van en route to Giza, unprompted, he shared a photo on his mobile of him standing next to Mrs. Sadat at what appeared to be a large function.

At the museum we saw the Tutankamen exhibit and the kids loved the animal mummification room, especially the enormous crocodiles. I pointed out a small dinosaur skeleton to Livvy along the way and a lovely German tourist corrected me and said it was in fact a dog. Obviously I have no talent with animal identification and yes I do realize that dinosaurs were long extinct by the time of the Pharoahs:-) although that escaped me at the moment in my excitement at my discovery of the veloceraptor.

Several back pats and embraces later, Walid offered that he was in fact the Registrar of Official Tour Guides in Cairo and that no one seeking an official license can obtain one without Walid's personal authorization. He also heads the Faculty of Tourism at the University if Cairo and has two children, an iPhone, a MacBook Air on-order, a Wii, and a brand new Guitar Hero game for his son. Walid was vaguely reminiscent of my brother Richard counting his post-Bar Mitzvah loot, only taller with an accent and in linen trousers.

From there we headed to the Pyramids...

Truth be told, if you put the shtick aside, Walid is an excellent Egytpologist. His explanations of how the pyramids were built captivated the kids who now can repeat verbatim that it took over 60 years with 2.3 million blocks of stone during the flood season only to built the Great Pyramid alone and how it is the only remaining ancient wonder of the original 7 ancient wonders of the world. Walid fancies himself a wildlife and portait photographer and was most helpful pointing out where to take photos and of course how and in fact by the end he was snapping most the shots for me, very kind. Walid did a great job at the market negotiating for Justin who had his eye on a glass pyramid with etchings inside for his collection, so Walid will no doubt be greeted by Justin much like the staff at the hotel and museum come tomorrow.

The pyramids were truly awesome as was the Sphynx and the kids loved their post pyramid camel ride. I was spared the smelly experience because while Walid snapped photos of the kids I had to hold the backpack.

We made it back safely and spent the end of the afternoon lounging by the pool. Great day! Can't wait to learn what else Walid owns come tomorrow.