Showing posts with label Shanghai. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Shanghai. Show all posts

Monday, October 26, 2009

Fabric market pantomime and facials for everyone





This morning after a swim in Sabrina's pool our driver picked us up for more, you guessed it, shopping. Livvy expressed feeling sorry for our "shufu" who spent his days waiting in the car for us to return. Of course, she did not suggest cutting our shopping short but still she displayed great sensitivity and enthusiastically called out "Xie Xie" to him every time he opened the door for her. Sabrina took us to a secret fashion store. So secret in fact was this store, that the elevator in the building wherein it resides does not even stop on the 9th floor where it is located. No kidding. As it turns out, the abundant high end designer merchandise may not have been lawfully acquired, and given that one needs to know the location and the trick of getting off on the 10th floor and walking down, I believe the store will enjoy a long life and bring much joy to visiting shoppers.

We then hit another jewelry market where Livvy indulged in her passion for accessories. Upstairs at the jewelry market there is a floor of leathergoods stalls, displaying knock off Gucci after knock off Chanel and on and on. Livvy fell in love with a black patent faux Chanel clutch but after negotiating to an excellent price, she discovered the handle was broken. The shop owner was a determined woman and tried her best to talk Livvy into a similar Marc Jacobs clutch but Livvy would have none of it, she wanted the Chanel with the gold handle or nothing. We turned to leave the stall, and the shop owner sprang into action motioning with one hand for an assistant to guard her stall while motioning with her free hand for us to follow her down the corridor. Unsure about the excursion, but keen for an adventure, we decided that she must have another clutch elsewhere in the building and so decided to follow. She guided us through several narrow corridors with a sense of urgency and onto a service elevator where we ascended several floors finally emerging onto a decidedly dingy hallway. Then it was down another hallway until we arrived at an innocuous looking multi-locked closet door. The woman, let us call her “Linda”, unlocked the door deftly and ushered us quickly into the dark closet, looking behind herself into the hallway to apparently ensure we had not been followed. She switched on a lightbulb dangling from the ceiling and as my eyes began adjusting to the light, my nose detected the sweet smell of fine leather goods. As the room came into focus, I found myself literally surrounded by neatly stacked shelves full of hundreds of Chanel, Ferragamo, Bottega and Gucci purses, wallets, and pochettes, all in or next to their original packaging. It was at this point where it became clear to me that yes there is a God and she is most definitely female. As I stood there frozen in leather shock, “Linda” quickly located another Chanel clutch from a stack on the floor (no original packaging), separated from the gleaming tower of original merchandise; even in a dark storage closet on the sixth floor of a market building in Shanghai there is a distinct hierarchy. “This noh real, mush cheapah,” she said. Then she produced another clutch in a beautiful soft cotton double C embossed bag, although similar to the first, this was clearly an entirely different animal. “This real,” proclaimed Linda, “I makey you special price.” She handed me the clutch, the patent leather gleamed in an entrancing fashion and was buttery to the touch. It had a heavier weight to it and smelled divine. But after snapping to my senses and consulting with Livvy, we agreed that she was too young for a real Chanel bag no matter the “specialness” of the price.

Faux clutch in hand, we then headed to the household fabric market in search of giraffe print fabric to make tablecloths for Justin's Bar Mitzvah party next year. By sheer luck, we happened upon a stall that had the exact fabric I was hoping for but the shop keeper spoke as much English as I speak Mandarin, and we were off to a shaky start. I tried pantomiming eating dinner at a large round table and smoothing the imaginary fabric of the tablecloth while holding my invisible chopsticks aloft. This got us absolutely no where although a small crowd did begin to gather around me. By divine intervention of the language gods, a kind hearted Chinese woman who works in Customer Support for an outsourced IT company (she later gave me her card and a plug for her employer), spotted our struggle and stopped to help interpret for us. For less than the price of renting 2 tablecloths back home (I kid you not for in matters of pricing I rarely kid) I bought 17 tablecloths and 170 napkins which would be made on the spot and delivered to Sabrina's apartment, hallelujah!!

To celebrate, we went for facials as well as mani pedis, and Japanese food at a lovely spot where Livvy promptly fell asleep on the table.

Shanghai reunion, dumplings please, and foot massages






We landed at Shanghai's Pudong airport at 9:45pm and were met by our unsmiling and rather mute driver Mr. Li. We drove into the night with the air as thick as pea soup. I opened my window to take in the fresh night air, and just as soon began to sense an ever so slight stinging in my eyes. Within a matter of minutes the stinging could no longer be described as slight and as it turns out, this otherwise romantic fog turned out to actually be city smog, neither fresh nor advisable for inhaling. I enjoyed the remainder of the hour's drive to the city with the windows firmly sealed and grateful that Mr. Li's silence would enable him to maintain full focus on his driving, and I must say that Mr. Li seemed quite able to navigate at 100km/hr with just 10 feet of visibility.

Soon enough we were reunited with my dear cousin Sabrina who lives in Shanghai in full ex-pat grandeur. After greeting 4 of her doormen, Alec, Aaron, Henry and Enson (none of whom were born with their names, but picked them as all Chinese who deal with foreigners do out of some outdated baby name book no doubt left over by some passerby in the early 1970's) we deposited our luggage and headed out to a dumpling shop. We enjoyed a few different types of dumplings and learned that in China the "napkin" has not yet been introduced into main stream society. Consequently, one must carry masses of tissue on one's person at all times or risk excessive hotel laundry bills and of course the embarassment of oil stains on one's lap. Next we hopped in a taxi and headed for the Happy Rainbow Foot Massage parlour. For anyone who has yet to enjoy a Chinese foot massage, may I kindly urge you to rush out of your home and board the very next plane to China where 60 minutes of pure bliss awaits you for the remarkably reasonable price of about $7-$12 USD. Then at 1am we took our very happy feet back to Sabrina's for bedtime.

The next morning I enjoyed a killer workout with Sabrina's personal trainer "Jimmy", and then it was off to the silk markets for custom made dresses for Livvy. We also stopped in Nanjing street to enjoy some dim sum and a treat at a very chic Haagen Daz with white gloved servers. Livvy was positively joyful selecting her fabric and various dress styles. But the piece de resistance was to be found at the pearl market where Livvy set to customizing her accessories. "This is like heaven!" she quipped. Great start to our journey.