This morning we kissed Sabrina good bye and packed up to leave for the airport bound for Guilin. Our driver did not show up on time and after some momentary panic at being told by the four doormen on duty (Roger, Donald, Kenneth and Francis) that it would take over an hour to get a taxi at this time in the morning, we located Sabrina's neighbor Hilda who kindly offered us her car and driver, and we made it to the airport with plenty of time to catch our flight.
The domestic airport was full of busy travelers keen to shove us out of their way and cut in front of us at every turn. The flight south to Guilin was short and efficient with some type of meat curry and rice served for breakfast (I demurred). Upon arrival in Guilin Livvy needed the restroom and so we made our way to the public toilet in the airport and queued up along with dozens of Chinese women for a stall. When it was Livvy's turn, I handed her a fist full of kleenex and wished her luck. Livvy emerged a few seconds later looking confused, "Mom," she whispered in my direction, "the toilet's missing." I assured her that the hole in the floor was indeed the toilet and that she should pretend she was camping and just squat. A few moments later Livvy emerged proudly and proclaimed with a smile, "I did it!" Welcome to the "Real China" part of the trip.
We were met by Leo our guide and yet another silent driver but this one had a 1970's style "Dry Look" hairspray bottle hair do. We drove over an hour through rice fields and lounging oxen, finally arriving at our hotel the Relais et Chateux Hotel of Modern Art, a.k.a. HOMA. HOMA is a 20 acre working artist colony where dozens of international sculpters and painters are invited to live as fellows and produce art in the impressive art studios, stone cutting facilities and outdoor working areas, these works are then displayed and sold in the world class galleries on site. The hotel is at the heart of the estate and the decor is modern art by the fellows, breathtaking.
We were greeted by Daisy, our butler, who escorted us to our beautiful room with a view of the outdoor sculpture gardens, and then after lunch in the courtyard restaurant, Daisy took us to our art class at the Studio. Livvy produced a handsome painted porcelain pig and I worked on an etching for the better part of two hours which can only be fairly described as primitive. The art teacher tried his best to improve upon my handiwork and asked if I might leave my piece with him over night in the studio so that he could try to make it "more perfect". After the lesson, Daisy gave us a complete tour and explanation of the impressive and expansive sculpture gardens. Livvy was mesmerized by the life sized stone, marble and bronze sculptures and treated us to a photo shoot of herself interacting with the sculptures a la "America's Next Top Model", see pics. After a hot shower in the black granite and marble bathroom, we enjoyed a private dining experience in the upscale Lotus restaurant at the hotel, followed by a double massage in the brand new hotel spa, where Livvy fell asleep and snored throughout the full 90-minute treatment.
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